7
Anti-Aging Ingredients You Need to Know
With
a slew of anti-aging ingredients claiming to be the Holy Grail of eternal
youth, choosing skincare products is overwhelming! But you can shop smart, if
you do your research. We've done the work for you and broken down the key
players in this handy cheat sheet.
Retinol
Retinol
is a derivative of vitamin A, making it a milder version of retinoids (a
prescription-only wrinkle fighter). While it takes several weeks to see
results, retinol is the most effective over-the-counter anti-aging ingredient
when it comes to "smoothing wrinkles, unclogging pores, lightening
superficial brown spots, and improving the texture of the skin," says Amy
Wechsler, New York City dermatologist. Because of retinol's potency, skin
irritation is common, especially in direct sunlight. Apply retinol-based
products at night on dry skin to avoid sensitivity and be sure to apply a
moisturizer with SPF every morning.
Niacinamide
If
you have dark spots resulting from acne scars, sun damage, or old age, lighten
them with niacinamade, a vitamin-B3 derivative that prevents melanin, or
pigmentation, from rising to the surface. “It may help to improve the skin’s
moisture barrier and collagen production, all of which reverses the appearance
of sun damage,” says Wechsler. Plus, it’s known to reduce inflammation, and
even acne.
Hyaluronic
Acid
Though
you probably associate the word “acid” with harsh and abrasive, hyaluronic acid
is the exact opposite. It’s a humectant, meaning that it draws out water from
the air and dermis (the skin that lies below the surface). Look for a lotion
that contains hyaluronic acid, “which can add to the moisturizer’s hydrating
qualities, and may even spur new collagen production,” says Wechsler.
Alpha
Hydroxy Acids
Unlike
hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs for short) are exfoliators that
gently dissolve the "glue" that holds surface skin cells together,
letting the dead ones slough away to reveal youthful looking skin. This process
encourages cell turnover, which typically slows with age. Getting rid of dead
skin also lets moisturizers, serums, and skin treatments penetrate the skin and
work more effectively. But look for products with no more than 8 percent AHAs.
"In high concentrations, AHAs can help fade brown spots and fine wrinkles,
but they make skin extra sensitive to the sun," says Wechsler.
L-absorbic
acid
L-ascorbic
acid is just a fancy word for "vitamin C." Though vitamin C is a
good-for-you ingredient that helps boost the immune system, it's a little more
complex when skincare is involved. Think of vitamin C as a wild card —
extremely volatile and unstable. "When exposed to air, it undergoes
oxidation and becomes ineffective," says Wechsler. When vitamin C is
stable and good, it's really good. It's an important antioxidant that helps
build collagen, reduce inflammation, and promote elasticity to plump up skin.
But how can you tell if vitamin C in a product is stable? Look for
"L-ascorbic acid" in the ingredient list.
Avobenzone
If
there's one skincare product to swear by, it's a broad-spectrum sunscreen with
SPF 30 or higher. Avobenzone is a common chemical ingredient in sunscreen that
blocks UVA rays. It's often paired with benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone to shield
against UVB rays. For maximum protection, apply a chemical sunscreen directly
on skin before serum, lotion, or makeup. Hate the thought of chemicals? Go for
a mineral block that contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, suggests
Wechsler. But because of its chalky texture and shield-like barrier, a mineral
block should be applied last, after serum and moisturizer.
Antioxidants
Slow
down the clock with an antioxidant-packed skin saver. “Antioxidants help
prevent and repair damage to your body tissue by encouraging cell growth,” says
Wechsler. More importantly, they neutralize free radicals (unstable, damaging
molecules in your body caused by elements such as sunlight, smoke, and
pollution). The most popular antioxidants include vitamins C and E,
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